Pakistani fashion has experienced what many might call a renaissance in recent years. Numerous aspects of Desi and Pakistani fashion have entered the mainstream, capturing attention globally. A recent viral TikTok video exemplifies this trend: a woman referred to a dupatta as part of a European or Scandinavian aesthetic. If you haven’t seen it yet, here’s a snippet:
“What is this aesthetic called? But it’s very European, effortlessly chic.”
This statement sparked a discourse, leading many to reflect on the historical and cultural significance of the dupatta and Pakistani fashion as a whole. Fashion, whether we realize it or not, is deeply intertwined with history, politics, and colonialism, and these influences have significantly shaped its evolution.
The dupatta, in particular, holds profound cultural and historical importance. It has played a vital role in female identity across South Asia for centuries. Historically, the dupatta symbolized modesty and grace, as evidenced by its presence in depictions of iconic figures like Noor Jahan. Across the region, variations of the dupatta—often colorful and intricately designed—reflect local traditions. For instance, the Kara dupatta is uniquely associated with Hyderabad.
In Pakistan, the dupatta has been a consistent symbol of cultural and political identity. Prominent women in Pakistan’s history, such as Fatima Jinnah and Benazir Bhutto, often donned dupattas, reinforcing their connection to tradition and the people. While the dupatta’s significance spans generations, it took on a more political role in the 1960s. This era, a little over a decade after Partition, saw Pakistan striving to solidify its national identity. During General Zia-ul-Haq’s regime, for example, TV reporters were mandated to wear dupattas on air, and Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) revised its uniforms to include the dupatta for air hostesses. What had once been a cultural garment became a symbol of national identity intertwined with religion.
Similarly, the shalwar kameez emerged as Pakistan’s national dress during the 1960s and 1970s. While many still wore suits in the post-British colonial era, leaders like Zulfikar Ali Bhutto deliberately adopted the shalwar kameez to connect with the masses. This shift wasn’t merely sartorial; it was a political statement. The majority of working-class Pakistanis at the time did not wear tailored English suits, making Bhutto’s choice a relatable and symbolic gesture. The prominence of the shalwar kameez and dupatta at political gatherings underscored their significance in shaping both religious and national identities.
This nuanced relationship between fashion, history, and colonialism is evident in how the West has historically perceived Eastern fashion. Items like the dupatta were often dismissed as backward or traditional. Today, however, elements of South Asian attire are commodified and sold at premium prices without acknowledgment of their origins. This appropriation—and the subsequent erasure of cultural roots—explains the frustration many expressed in response to the viral TikTok video.
Ultimately, Pakistani fashion is a vibrant tapestry of history and culture. Its journey from being labeled traditional to achieving global recognition reflects a broader narrative of resilience and identity. By understanding the roots of these garments, we gain a deeper appreciation for their significance and the rich history they embody.
credits:@Rozana with Rida